Create an automatic irrigation system made out of a wine bottle and scrap wood. Unlike our previous concrete projects, the formwork for this planter is made from solid wood coated in wax. We wanted to experiment with ways to make reusable forms that are more durable than the laminate and melamine boards we have used in the past.

SUPPLIES:

Quikrete 5000
Available at Home Depot
QUIKRETE® 5000 Concrete Mix is a commercial-grade blend of stone or gravel, sand, and cement and is specially designed for higher early strength. This is the recommended concrete mix to use because of the high early strength and low price. It’s great for making tables, pavers, stools, and lamps and is typically found in 80-pound bags at Home Depot, but 60-pound bags are also available.

2x18 8' Long
Available at Home Depot
I used an 8 foot long 2x8 to make the forms, but you could make a larger planter by using 2x10s or 2x12s.

Scrap Pieces of 2x4s, 1x4s + 2x6s
Recycle + Reuse
I used scraps of 2x4s and 1x4s to make the inside of the form and 2x6s scraps to make the bottle holder.

1/4" Copper Tubing
Available at Home Depot
I used approximately 1 foot of soft copper tubing to make the watering spout.

BIOSHIELD Countertop Finish
Available at Home Depot
I used a natural wood countertop finish called BIOSHIELD. It's made from linseed oil and beeswax and provides protection without toxicity, which is nice for your plants.

Candle Wax
Available at a Craft Store or Online
I used wax and a heat gun to seal the boards.

TOOLS:

RYOBI 18 Volt Cordless Drill
Available at Home Depot








RYOBI 10" Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser
Available at Home Depot







RYOBI Orbital Sander
Available at Home Depot








RYOBI Heat Gun
Available at Home Depot

INSTRUCTIONS:

STEP 1: Cut the 2x8s
I cut a 2 foot long piece of 2x8 to use as the base of the mold. I then cut side pieces to surround it.





STEP 2: Wax the Plywood
I wanted to try something other than melamine board for concrete forms, so I decided to try coating the 2x8s with wax. I used a candle at first but needed a heat gun or hot hair dryer to spread the wax around. It ended up being faster just to use the heat gun to melt the wax directly onto the 2x8s.







STEP 3: Assemble the Inside
I made the inside of the mold out of scrap 2x4s and 1x4s. I was careful to make sure that I screwed through the 2x8 base and into the 2x4s so that I would later be able to unscrew and remove the base plate first.





STEP 4: Bubble Wrap the Inside
I tried making forms for planters a few different ways and the hardest part is always getting the inside piece out. Bubble wrapping the inside piece is the quickest and easiest way I have found to make the inside piece easily removable and reusable. I used 2 layers of bubble wrap with a bit of duct tape and hot glue to keep it in place.





STEP 5: Screw on the Sides
I used 2 1/2" screws to screw on the sides. You might want to pre-drill through the side pieces so that you don't split the wood.





STEP 6: Seal the Mold with Wax
I used the heat gun and wax to seal the entire mold. I melted the wax and let the liquid congeal in the cracks.





STEP 7: Mix + Pour the Concrete
I mixed a batch of Quikrete 5000 and scooped it into the form. Make sure to push the concrete down as you go with a stick or gloved fingers.





STEP 8: Screed the Top
Once I was sure that the concrete was pushed down into every corner, I used a stick to screed the top of the form and level the concrete.





STEP 9: Let It Cure
Let the concrete cure at least 3 days before trying to remove the mold.



STEP 10: Remove the Mold
Unscrew the screws and remove the side pieces and base. Using a long thin knife blade or spatula can be helpful.





STEP 11: Measure + Cut the 2x6 Scraps for the Bottle Holder
I wanted the bottle holder to be about as wide as the planter, so I measured the planter and cut two pieces of scrap 2x6 with my compound mitre saw.







STEP 12: Drill Holes
To make the bottle holder, I drilled a 1 1/8" diameter hole in the bottom 2x6 piece and a 1 1/4" diameter hole in the top 2x6 piece. Different bottles have different diameter necks, but this is what worked for me. I first drilled a pilot guide hole through the center of both pieces of 2x6 and then drilled the large holes seperately.





STEP 13: Glue + Screw
Glued and screw the two pieces of 2x6 together.







STEP 14: Mark + Add Guides
I marked lines along the underside of the wood block where I would need to fasten guide strips that would keep the bottle holder from falling off the planter. Then I added two small strips of wood along those lines.







STEP 15: Sand the Wood
I used my orbital sander to sand the bottle holder smooth.





STEP 16: Finish
I added a coat of BIOSHIELD wood countertop finish to give the wood block a protective non-toxic coating.





STEP 17: Drill Through the Cork
I drilled a 3/16" diameter hole through a cork and then cut the cork down with a knife so I would be able to fit it back into the bottle. Then I inserted the copper tubing into the hole.





STEP 18: Adjust the Irrigation
You can adjust how quickly the water is delivered by drilling holes in the copper and crimping the tube with pliers to slow the flow. This will take a few tries to get right, so have a towel handy to wipe up drips.







STEP 19: Add Plants + Finish
Fill the planter with soil, plug-in the planter and you are done!











Good luck making your own self watering concrete planter and please email, tweet or hashtag photos to @benuyeda, ben@homemade-modern.com or #homemademodern. For more detailed instructions, dimensioned drawings and different variations of the project, check out our soon-to-be-released book.

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